How We Got Started...
ABOUT US
I developed my love for surfing when my Dad's job transferred us from Houston, TX to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil in 1983. I was twelve at the time. For the next two years, I ate, drank, slept surfing. Surfing posters of Tom Curren riding Al Merrick's Channel Islands boards covered my wall. We lived right on Leblon beach and in addition to surfing in front of our residence, we frequently surfed a special break called Prainha (pictured below).
My stoke for surfing was immediate. However, in 1986, my Dad's work transferred us to Stavanger, Norway for the next two years, then back to Texas in 1987. That would begin the start of a nearly 20 year sabbatical away from surfing.
Fast forward to January 2005. My wife and I left our 3 daughters with her parents as we headed to Maui for a 9 day vacation before welcoming our 4th daughter. I had always dreamed of surfing in Hawaii. Did you note the month? Yes, the waves were big, very big. I spent the week crossing the island surfing two breaks, Honolua Bay and Ho'okipa.
Here are a few thoughts from that week..."Is this heaven or Hawaii?" It wasthatbeautiful and the waves werethatgood. Have you ever been on the cliff overlooking Honolua Bay on a winter Saturday when it's firing overhead? It's both exhilarating and intimidating. When you haven't surfed in 20 years, a solo paddle out to an overhead Ho'okipa is every bit as spooky (Ho'okipa pre-paddle out below).